Eating in Rome

Whenever I travel, I make sure I have two things in addition to my camera: a notebook with all the places I must go to listed and a folder to keep all sorts of bills, receipts and pamphlets safely for reference and for making memories. On a trip to Italy with Arjun a few weeks ago, the paper folder was rendered useless after being stuffed to the brim in the first city we visited. That first city was Rome.

When visiting Rome the one thing I believe you’ve got to be most careful about is picking an accommodation in a good location. Many places in Rome claim they’re “centrally located” even though they’re far out from the heart of the city. I put in a bit of effort picking an apartment for us because I wanted to stay in the ancient city in either Trastevere or Campo de’ Fiori (these places are also home to the best restaurants in Rome) – where the streets are narrow and cobbled and locals are zipping around in their Vespas. Campo de’ Fiori turned out to be ideal because of its proximity to Trastevere, the Jewish Ghetto and of course, piazza Campo de’ Fiori.

We stayed in a cute little studio that was a stone’s throw from Campo de’ Fiori. And along with the studio, we were lucky to have one of the nicest hosts of our entire trip. On our first day, he showed us around the neighbourhood of Campo de’ Fiori and Trastevere south of the river Tiber. He took us into the caves under restaurants to see Roman remains (history lesson revision), he made us sample the best coffee in Rome, he sneaked us into the kitchen of a lovely bakery (La Renella) in Trastevere where they use hazelnut shells as fuel for the oven, and this gives their bread its characteristic flavour. With him we visited the church of San Ignazio, the Pantheon and the spot where Caesar was assassinated. (Thanks, Tommaso!)

Today, I sat with my box of bills and arranged them chronologically to relive those memories and meals. I also figured I’d better document my trip before the ink on the receipts vanish completely.

I’ve put together a list of restaurants, markets and gourmet shops that we visited. We packed in quite a bit into our 4 day trip because all we did was walk, eat, and then walk to the next place to eat. Here’s a tip: When you see the words “Forno” stop right there in your path and head inside. Get a pretty pastry (my favourites: chocolate and ricotta tart, apple tart and cannoli) and a cup of espresso.

RESTAURANTS

Sora Margherita
Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 30, Rome

This humble little restaurant is the Jewish Ghetto stole my heart. The place has paper tablecloth, hand written menus and unapologetically rustic food. It’s at the corner of a sparsely lit piazza and so inconspicuous that we walked passed it twice without noticing it. The door is plastered with stickers of tour guide books and website logos that attest to the fact that Sora Margherita is the place to eat at when in Rome. The waitresses spoke little English but were awfully patient with us, explaining each item on their one page menu. Everything we ate was ace: Carciofi Fritti (chickpea coated artichoke fritters), Agnollotti Pesto Genovese, Fettuccine with tomatoes and basil, Abbacchio alla scottadito (beef sausages) and tiramisu (can safely say, mine’s better.) When we paid for our meal, I asked if I could keep the hand-written menu and the scruffy bill, and they obliged. They even handed me their very own Sora Margherita calendar for 2012. I happily walked back to my apartment with my new treasures.

Nonna Betta
Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 16, Rome

We landed up at Nonna Betta accidentally. We were walking about the Jewish Ghetto looking for Sora Margherita, but then when we did find it, we were turned aways because a private party was underway. We walked around a bit more in search of another restaurant and chanced upon Nonna Betta. A little reading up on the notes pasted outside the restaurant revealed that the place was mentioned in the New York Times for its Carciofi Alla Giudia: globe artichokes is trimmed and flattened to resemble a flower, then deep fried twice whole until light and crispy. Anthony Bordain came here to try these very artichokes as well. Two glorious endorsements enticed us four hungry eaters and we walked into Nonna Betta that was bustling with patrons. Everything we ate here impressed me: everything was simple, yet so utterly flavourful. At this Jewish restaurant, we tried the famous carciofo giudia (deep fried artichoke), falafel, hummus (so light and creamy, so perfect), peperonata (Italian version of Ratatouille), focaccia bianca (so delicate and crispy!), penne pasta with olive and capers in tomato sauce, spigola carciofi (spaghetti with sea bass and artichokes), cicoria cacio e pepe (pecorino cheese and pepper tagliolini with chicory, a Roman specialty), gnocchi al pesto. I’m most definitely going back.

La Villetta di Gino la Rocca
Vicolo del Buco, 2, Rome

This was an adorable little family run place we stumbled upon when walking back from the Testaccio market. It has a modest menu, and at the back of the restaurant, there’s not just a kitchen but a room for the family to sit together with their puppies! A tiny window from the seating area into the kitchen gave us a peek into the fun that was going on amongst them. Just so I could see an Italian family enjoying an afternoon together on Christmas, I peeked in under the pretext of paying my bill. After the morning mass, locals came in and aluminum foil trays of lasagna went out. The deep fried mozzarella balls and lasagna were both excellent. So much so that Arjun insisted on exchanging his plate of carbonara with my lasagna.

Il Vicolo
Vicolo de’ Cinque, 26, Roma

We met up with a bunch of our friends who also happened to be in Rome for dinner here, mostly because all the other places on my list were shut on Christmas Eve. Here, the bruschetta platter alone filled me up. The porcini fettucine and truffle ravioli we pretty good, but the minestrone soup not all that.

BAKERIES

Il Forno Campo de’ Fiori
Piazza Campo de’ Fiori, 22, Rome

Eat the pizza bianca here. Nothing but bread, extra virgin olive oil and salt. You will keep going back.

La Renella
Via del Moro, 15, Rome

In the 4 days we were in Rome, we went to La Renella thrice. Everything we tried there was excellent: artichoke  and zucchini pizza, olive and tomato pizza (I wish I could bring back a year’s suppy of tomatoes), ham and cheese pizza, chocolate chip and ricotta tart, cherry tart, fennel cookie.

Pasticceria Bernasconi
Piazza Benedetto Cairoli, 16, Rome

My everyday breakfast place, Italian style: stand by the bar, down an espresso and a pastry and then pay the owner on your way out.

Forno Roscioli
Via dei Chiavari, 34, Rome

I was spoilt rotten, much thanks to the location of my apartment: right downstairs from where I was staying was the famous Roscioli bakery: we ate lots of pizza rossa there. I also bought an apple cake (but like most Italian pastries, it left much to be desired). They have all sorts of breads and Italian cakes. At the back is a gorgeous salad bar. Their speciality is the Lariano Bread, a naturally risen, and filled with raisins, nuts or olives.

COFFEE BAR

Tazza D’Oro
Via degli Orfani, 84, Rome

Tazza D’Oro is probably the most famous coffee shop in Rome. It is located close to the Pantheon, and is almost always packed with people chugging down their favourite drink. Our apartment host, Tommaso, took us for a cup of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee after a quick tour around the place. Pay for your cup of espresso or cappuccino and then head to the bar where you’ll be served your coffee alongside the locals.  Tazza D’Oro I planned to go back to guy some coffee and their ‘Arome di Roma’ coffee liqueur, but sadly, the coffee shop was shut that day (Christmas!). Note to self: return in summer for coffee granita topped with whipped cream.

GELATO

Arjun and I did a little gelato tour of our own, eating a total of 17 flavours over a span of 2 hours. Sugar rush? Oh, yes. Here it is, the Rome Gelato Walk.

FOOD SHOPPING

Campo de’ Fiori
Piazza Campo de’ Fiori, Rome

So beautiful, I wrote an entire post dedicated to it. Get dried herb and spice mixes, sun-dried tomatoes, porcini mushrooms to bring back. If you’re got access to a kitchen, even better.

Testaccio Market
Piazza di Testaccio, Rome

It is one of the largest indoor markets of Rome comprising several several food and non-food stalls. Porta Portese isn’t too far, but don’t go; nothing but garbage on sale.

Volpetti
Via Marmorata, 47, Rome

The ultimate deli in Rome. Olive oil, cheese, balsamic vinegar, fresh truffles (of you want to splurge), and a whole lot of other things to bring back home. They vaccuum pack as well.

Places I missed (next time!)

• Pizzeria Di Nuovo Mondo Di Francesco (Via Amerigo Vesupucci, 9-17, Rome) for margherita
• Innocenti Biscottificio Artigiano (Via della Lucce, 21a, Rome)
• 00100 Pizza for pizza
• Confetteria Moriondo & Gargiglio (Via del Piè di Marmo, 21-22, Roma) for marron glacé
• Pizzarium (Via della Meloria, 43, Rome) for more pizza
• Da Francesco (Piazza del Fico, 28) for antipasti spread that costs just €5!