This winter is all about bitters, citrus and rhubarb for me. It’s also special because I encountered my my first ever puntarelle. It doesn’t look like much, in fact, once the leaves are off, the stalks look pretty gnarly. But when prepared correctly, the bitter stalks are curly, crunchy and the perfect vehicle for a pungent garlic and anchovy dressing.
When I first spotted puntarelle at the market in Rome a few years ago, I was too naive and thought the vendors were rinsing them clean. In reality, they were soaking them in ice cold water so that the puntarelle shreds would turn to beautiful curls and crisp up.
To prepare puntarelle for a salad, you first need to peel off all the outer leaves. You can save these leaves for a quick sauté to add to a pasta. For the salad, you only need the firm stalks. Separate each stalk and cut off the tough ends. These stalks are hollow, so you could split them up and julienne them or pass them through a puntarelle cutter (pictured below). Then, soak in it ice cold water for at least an hour. Don’t skip this step – it’s worth the wait and you’ll see just how enjoyable (and addictive) the puntarelle gets. If you do find yourself in Italy, you should get yourself one of these puntarelle cutters. I’m not one for unitaskers, but its small size works in its favour.
Next, make the dressing and don’t go easy on the garlic. I have been eating loads of puntarelle salad, but I’ve been eating it alone. I have also been forbidden to eat this salad for dinner because the anchovy and garlic breath that lingers. Just a little warning.
Puntarelle alla Romana
1 puntarelle (about 700g)
2-3 salted anchovies
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1-2 garlic cloves (depending on the size)
Salt
Black pepper
5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- Prepare the puntarelle as explained above. Spin-dry the puntarelle.
- In a mortar and pestle, add all the ingredients except the olive oil and grind to a coarse paste. Let it sit for 10 minutes.
- Next, drizzle in the olive oil as you whisk.
- Toss with the puntarelle and serve with a good, crusty bread.
