The best part about living in mainland Europe is that a new city is never too far, making it especially conducive to impromptu weekend trips. Like this one in Brussels.
Brussels gave me the quirky vibe. I love it for the random art installation on the streets, the soothing Beethoven playing on the metro speakers, the chocolate shops at every street corner, the energy and the friendly people.
Brussels is a small city, but a little hard to pack into a weekend even if you skip the touristy things like Little Europe and what-not. Luckily, I stumbled from one item in my list to the next by sheer coincidence… Like walking down to the Grand Place, I spotted Dandoy Biscuiterie or when walking to Fredrick Blondeel for waffles and ice cream, I made a pitstop for Kibbling at Mer du Nord. I even happened to chance upon a Belgian food tasting event where I had my fill of sausages, cheese, frites and Speculoos dipped in melted chocolate.
And really, what’s not to like when you’re in the land of Speculoos – the buttery, addictive cookies. Speculoos truffles. Speculoos chocolate. Speculoos ice cream. Speculoos tiramisù!
Chocolatier Mary
73 Rue Royale, Brussels 1000. Metro: Bibliotheque.
Founded in 1919, Mary is one of the oldest chocolateries around. Step in, and you’re transported to a time that will remind you of a Louis XV era, with a clientele that reflects royalty (the place has been a chocolate supplier to the royal Belgian family.) If you plan ahead of time, it’ll be fun to take a guided tour or attend a class at their atelier.
Dandoy
31 Rue au Beurre, B – 1000 Brussels. Metro: Bourse.
The biscuiterie that you have to go to when in Brussels. I went to one of the 7 outlets that’s a stone’s throw away from Grand Place on Rue au Beurre (literally means butter street – how cute is that). The place was packed with people queuing up to get their share of a taste of Belgium to take back home. I bought a small pack of Speculoos.
Les Brassins
36 Rue Keyenveld ,1050 Brussels (Ixelles). Metro: Porte de Namur.
I read about how fantastic the rabbit in cherry beer stew here is in New York Times. Of course, I had to eat here. We walked through a few dark back streets before we finally reached Les Brassins. For a tiny place that sits in such an obscure location, this place was surprisingly busy with locals. More people with reservations walked in. We’d never get a table here. So I did what I had to *cough* faked a reservation *cough*. That got us a seat in 20 minutes. I ordered their famous rabbit stew made in Kriek (Belgian cherry beer) with a side of stoemp (mashed potatoes mixed with vegetables) and a Speculoos tiramisù for dessert. Both were absolutely superb. I also bit into the duck breast in pepper sauce that my friend was having, and that was lovely too. Must visit; just make sure you have a map handy. Also, get some cash from the ATM – they don’t accept cards here. Read this lovely blog post by Emily of The Petit Four on Les Brassins.
Le Pain Quotidien
Place du Grand Sablon 11, 1000 Brussels. Metro: Grand Sablon.
Brussels is where it all began for Le Pain Quotidien. When I was traveling alone in NYC, I walked into LPQ because I spotted the communal table – I figured I wouldn’t feel all that awkward eating alone. When it opened its doors in Bombay, I loved going there for tartines after a morning of French class. We went to the one at Sablon – the place was bustling and we seated ourselves on a table in the white greenhouse-esque patio. I ordered their Tuscan platter: basil pesto, olive tapenade, melon, proscuitto, ricotta and sun dried tomatoes. Not very Belgian, but delicious nonetheless.
Mer du Nord / Noordzee
45, Rue Sainte Catherine , Brussels 1000. Metro: St. Catherine.
When you see people flocking to a place which only serves food outdoors even when it’s 7 degrees C, you know it’s a place that won’t disappoint. You eat by the tall tables that encircle the restaurant corner getting a peek of the action indoors. I had a serving of Kibbling (deep fried cod fish fingers served with tartare sauce) – that blew my mind. We also ordered the croquettes (quite possibly the creamiest I’ve ever eaten) and a plate of plump prawns in a light sauce that you dunk bread in. They even had escargot on the menu, but I chickened out.
Fredric Blondeel
Brussels Fish Market, Quai aux Briques 24, B-1000 Brussels. Metro: St. Catherine.
My apartment host insisted I visit this place that got everything under one roof – waffles, hot chocolate, ice-creams. I ordered Venezuelan hot chocolate laced with chilli and waffles with hazelnut ice cream. The folks at Fredric Blondeel were very kind in offering us an extra waffle because their iron makes two at a time and we’d ordered an odd number. I really appreciated them being gracious about photography – they’d actually take a detour when they saw me photographing something! Adorable little place.
Other than hopping from one eatery to another, I visited Grand Place, walked down the busy Avenue Louise, popped into Musée René Magritte and bought a postcard to write to my sister, browsed through the Flea Market at Sablon and bought gorgeous tea cups to add to my travel souvenir collection.
Note to self: Places to eat at (next time)
- Chez Antoinne for frites
- Moeder Lambic
- Chocolate Making at Mary or Zaabar
- Au Vieux Bruxelles for Moules Frites
- Wittamer
- Chocolate Walking Tour and Chocolate Museum
- Chez Marie (Is it true that this Michelin starred restaurant does a prix fixe for €17?!)
- L’Ogenblik
