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how-to

How To Cut An Artichoke

January 9, 2012

How to Cut an Artichoke, the Roman way.

Early in the morning at Campo de Fiori, aside from arranging the fresh produce, the vendors are busy trimming the seasonal favourite of Italian: the artichoke. While both small and large artichokes are available whole, the trimmed artichokes, ready to cook, are also on offer.

This is how they do it in Rome: trim the outer tough leaves and thorns, pull out the fibrous choke and then rub vigorously with half a lemon so that they don’t brown. In Venice, however, instead of rubbling the artichoke with lemon, they plunge the trimmed artichokes in cold water.

Here’s the video, unedited, capturing the dexterity of the vendor and the commotion at the morning market.

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Apple Tart
I think an apple pie is one of the first things I baked when I got an oven. I used a pie dough recipe from a nondescript local book and didn’t pay much attention to baking blind (we will get to this shortly). Back then, this was an unnecessary step that the naïve me thought I could do without. I didn’t know the technique behind it, nor the importance as I had only begun exploring the hows and whys of baking.
Apple Tart with Mascarpone Cheese
After poring over my favourite books and reading up quite a bit on the subject of pie dough over the years, I have come to understand them a little better. I love how Alice Water has been so descriptive through every step – you should probably buy The Art of Simple Food just for this chapter, if nothing else.
I don’t believe that there is THE pie crust recipe and that just that one recipe is absolutely foolproof, because with pie, it’s more about the technique and timing – at the end of it, it’s flour, butter and liquid put together.

Butter, Apples and a Tart ready for the oven

Making a pie crust isn’t such a nightmare for me as prepping seafood but here are some pointers I have grown to live by:
  • The refrigerator is your best friend. Start with chilled or frozen butter and keep putting the dough into the fridge in between steps. In fact, refrigerate everything – the ingredients and the pie dish. Especially when you’re living in a warm place.
  • Work with the ingredients quickly. They must, must, must remain cold at all times. A pastry cutter works beautifully, but a food processor or a KitchenAid will do things much faster. Or at least I’d like to think so because I just love my KitchenAid.
  • Use ice water. Not water with ice in it, but ice with water. I fill the measuring cup with ice cubes and then add water until it reaches the rim of the cup.
  • Don’t add in all the liquid at one time. The amount you need will vary depending on the humidity. It will also be a lot lesser if you’re adding an egg yolk to the pie crust.
  • A wet dough it better than a dry one that will crack while baking – add water a tablespoon at a time. If it falls apart like sand, it is too dry. Remember, it will get drier in the oven.
  • I like to add an egg yolk for its golden hue; it also prevents gluten development resulting in a tender crust.
  • I’ve read good things about vinegar additions in the pie dough. I have yet to try it from the recipe in Molly’s book – A Homemade Life, but vinegar is supposed to prevent gluten development (awesome for bread, but not for the said pie we are about to bake) and help achieve the much coveted texture.If you have, let me know!
  • Butter or shortening? They say using shortening yields a more flaky crust. I use all butter because I’m just biased. I’d like to try lard to, but I don’t have access to any.
  • Can you see the butter in the dough? That’s your answer to a flaky crust. It’s as simple as that. When you see the butter, you are assured of flakiness. Why? Because the dough will envelope the butter and form tiny pockets, and with heat, the butter in these pockets will melt and pie crust will puff up with the steam (same principles as puff pastry). Flaky crust!
  • I prefer using metal pans as opposed to ceramic ones to achieve a crispier crust and for an even crispier base, place the pie pan on a pizza stone or a thick baking sheet.
  • If I want a crumbly crust, I simply press the dough into the pie dish. And for a flaky one, I roll out the dough.
  • After watching how easy is to roll out the dough (thank you Rachel Allen), sandwiched in a clingfilm, I’m a fan of the method. You won’t even need flour for dusting. Also, when you’re rolling out the dough, it should feel a little tough to roll out. This way you know that the butter is absolutely cold. 
  • Once rolled out, peel off the upper sheet of cling film and gently invert the rolled dough into the pie dish. Again, be gentle.
  • After transferring the dough into the pie dish, first press the dough into the dish and then trim off the edges. Otherwise you will end up with shorter edge. Yes, I’m talking from experience. Also, correctly fitted dough stays put when it is baked and doesn’t shrink. Crimp the edges if you want it to look a little fancy.
  • Baking blind is important. It will dry the surface of the crust and help maintain the texture when baked again with the filling. Another nifty trick I picked up when watching Rachel Allen Bake was that she’d brush the inside of the pie after its partially baked with a beaten egg and pop it into an oven for another few minutes. This seals the pie and gets you another step closer to a non-soggy base.
  • To blind-bake, after fitting the rolled out dough into the pie, place a piece of parchment in it and fill it with beans or pie weights. More than that I love this tip from Dorie Greenspan – you should butter the inside of the pie crust, before placing a piece of foil and beans for blind baking. Yay for extra butter!
  • While baking blind, if you think the edges are browning quicker than you think, wrap some aluminium foil around it.
  • When to bake blind? Rule of thumb: for fruit and liquidy fillings bake blind.
  • Add your own tips in the comments and share what you think is absolutely necessary to achieve that perfect crust!

Now go on and bake your favourite pie!

Apple Tart
Pie Dough
Minimally adapted from: Dorie Greenspan
Yield: 9 inch single crust
1 ½ cups all purpose flour
2 tbsp caster sugar
1 ½ stick butter
1/4th cup ice water
1 egg, beaten
  1. In a bowl, stir the dry ingredients together.
  2. Add the pieces of cut butter into this and either cut with a pastry cutter or food processor until the mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs with a lot of larger pea sized chunks of butter as well.
  3. Add the water a spoonful at a time until the dough holds itself together without being too dry.
  4. Transfer this to a Ziploc bag and put it into the refrigerator for an hour or the freezer for a little lesser time.
  5. Butter a 9 inch pie dish and pop it into the freezer as well.
  6. Now roll out the dough between two sheets of cling film. Transfer to the pie dish, press into the dish and refrigerate it for another 30 minutes or until it has firmed up. Poke some holes into the crust with a fork.
  7. While the pie crust is chilling in the freezer, preheat the oven to 400F/200C.
  8. Butter the shiny side of the foil and stick it tightly to the crust. Fill with dried beans and bake for 25 minutes.
  9. If the crust has puffed up then push it back down with the back of the spoon. Now brush this with some beaten egg and pop it back into the oven for another 5-7 minute minutes.
  10. Let this cool before filling it in with anything. Remember, this is partially bakes. for a fully baked pie crust, pop it back into the oven for another 10 minutes or until golden in colour.
Cinnamon Apple Filling:
4 granny smith apples – peeled, cored and sliced
4-5 tbsp sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
2 tbsp butter
  1. Sprinkle 2 tbsp sugar and ½ tsp cinnamon on the base of the pre-baked pie crust.
  2. Arrange the apples in a concentric fashion starting out on the edge and moving inwards.
  3. Sprinkle the top with the remaining cinnamon and sugar. Dot with a little butter.
  4. Bake the pie for 15-20 minutes until the apples look like they’re done.
  5. Glaze with some jelly + water mixture for a shiny look.
  6. Serve with whipped cream or mascarpone cheese. YUM!

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Candied Ginger + Ginger Ale

September 15, 2009

Candied Ginger
Have you ever candied something? Maybe some orange or lime zests? If you haven’t, I urge you to give it a go. I only realise now what I had been missing out on all this while once I candied some ginger this morning. What’s more, it put my skepticism about candying at rest – waaay easier than I ever thought. Also, something I didn’t expect – these babies are addictive!

Given I have zero experience with candying this seemed like a good challenge (note to self: macarons will be the next challenge). I also needed an excuse to use the candy thermometer I’d bought but never used, in addition to proving to my mom that I do use the gazillion kitchen tools I keep buying. But more importantly, I wanted to make it because I have been itching to try Molly’s Banana Bread recipe (stay tuned!) in which candied ginger plays a very important part.

Candying ginger is quite straightforward, actually – You have to slice the ginger thinly with a sharp knife or a mandoline, then boil it twice in water, simmering for 10 minutes each time (make sure to reserve the water for an awesome ginger ale concentrate which I will tell you about in just a bit). Next, put the boiled ginger pieces with the sugar, water and a pinch of salt. Let it come to a boil and then let it simmer until it has reached a consistency of thin honey or 225F/106C on a candy thermometer (making sure people who complain about your precious kitchen gadgets are watching). Drain, toss in sugar, and set it on a cooling rack to dry up!

I’m munching on these just as I type – addictive, I tell you. And just as a final stamp of approval, grandma  gives these a two thumbs up because this is excellent after meals as a digestive.

Fresh Ginger + Candied ginger

Candied Ginger
Recipe source: David Lebovitz

1/2 pound / 225g fresh ginger, peeled, sliced thinly
2 cups / 400g sugar, plus additional sugar for coating the ginger slices, if desired
2 cups / 1/2l water
pinch of salt

  1. Put the ginger slices in a non-reactive pot, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let ginger simmer for ten minutes. Drain, and repeat one more time.
  2. Mix the sugar and water in the pot, along with a pinch of salt and the ginger slices, and cook until the temperature reaches 225F/106C.
  3. Drain very well while the ginger is hot, so the syrup will drain away better and sprinkle the drained slices with caster sugar as you toss the ginger in a bowl. Spread the ginger slices on a cooling rack for a few hours or overnight, until they’re somewhat dry.
  4. Alternatively, you could let the ginger sit in the syrup for an hour or overnight and even store the ginger slices in its syrup.
Storage: The ginger, packed in its syrup, can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one year. Tossed in sugar, the pieces can be stored at room temperature for a few months.

Ginger Ale

Ginger Ale
Yield: 6 servings

Leftover ginger water from boiling
Leftover sugar syrup from candying
½ cup water
½ cup sugar
Juice of 3 limes (or half per serving)

  1. Simmer all of the above except the lime for 5-7 minutes until the sugar has dissolved and the syrup is beginning to thicken. Turn off the heat. The syrup will continue to thicken. Once cool, transfer to a jar if you’re not going to be using it all up.
  2. In a glass, add 4-5 tbsp of the concentrate, juice of half a lime and club soda and stir. Drink up!

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How to Make Brownies

October 7, 2007

A couple of years ago, I made my first batch of brownies. I was astonished by how easy they were to make and how perfect the gooey inside and the crusty outside turned out to be.

Brownies can be made any flavour you like. You could add to the brownie batter caramel, butterscotch, Oreo, chocolate chip, white chocolate chunks, cinnamon, coffee, mint, nuts, peanut butter, Nutella, your favourite chocolate, and what have you. I love my Nutella flavoured brownies with chocolate sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice-cream. Oh yes, and a dollop of whipped cream!

There are a couple of things one needs to keep in mind while making brownies:

  1. Pan: The results vary slightly when different types of pans are used. A shiny medium-weight pan should be just fine. If you’re going to use a dark metal pan, you will either need to reduce the oven temperarture or the cooking time. Brownies made in a glass pan will have chewier edges and a fudgier center. I always use a light aluminum pan. The size matters too; sometimes the recipe will call for a 9×9, but if all you have is an 8×8, the brownies will take longer to bake.
  2. Oven temperature: Use an oven thermometer to make sure your baking it at the right temperature.
  3. DON’T change anything in the recipe, especially the fat. I.e. if it calls for butter – don’t try to use vegetable oil!
  4. Line the pan with parchment paper; you will be able to lift out the whole piece when they have cooled. Cutting the pieces also becomes simpler.
  5. If the recipe says to grease and flour the dish, use sifted cocoa powder instead of flour.
  6. Brownies continue to cook for a bit after removed from the oven. So don’t overdo the time.
  7. Sift some icing sugar on top to have it look pretty.
  8. Alternatively, place a paper doily, shake powdered sugar over the top and carefully lift the doily off. This gives it a pretty pattern.
  9. The crusty bits are always good crumbled over ice cream, especially if they have nuts in them.

A brownie’s character comes from the underlying structure of flour, sugar, butter, eggs and chocolate. Use the freshest and the best quality ingredients and you’ll have an incomparable brownie. :)

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Recipes and Travelogues

September 23, 2007

Cakes, Cupcakes and Muffins

Apple Crumb Cake
Apple and Cinnamon Streusel Muffin
Banana Bread with Chocolate

Banana Bread with Chocolate Chip and Crystallised Ginger
Banana Cupcakes with Double Chocolate Chips
Buttery Cinnamon Cake
Blueberry Almond Cake
Caramel Cupcakes
Cinnamon Cake with Caramel Apples
Chocolate Chip Muffins
Chocolate brownie, cheesecake white chocolate cake
Chocolate Chip Pound Cake
Chocolate Cherry Cake
Chocolate Hazelnut Marbled Cake
Chocolate Valentino Cake
Cookies and Cream Cheesecake
Dulce de Leche Cake with Vanilla Bean
Double Chocolate Fudge Cake
German Apple Cake
Gianduja Roulade
Hazelnut Cheesecake
Honey Lavender Madeleines
Lemon Poppy Seed Muffins
Nutella Cake
Nutella Cupcakes
Pear and Ginger Cake with Walnuts
Raspberry Yoghurt Teacake
Red Velvet Cupcakes
Triple Chocolate Devil Food Cake with Hazelnuts
White Chocolate Oreo Cupcakes

Brownies and Bars

Baked Brownies
Blueberry Crumb Bars
Double Chocolate Truffle Brownie

Nigel Slater’s 24 Carat Brownies
Snicker Bars

Biscuits, Cookies and Crackers

Almond Florentines
Black Forest Cookies
Brownie Cookies
Buttery Buckwheat Nibby Cookies
Cheddar Cheese Biscuits
Chocolate Chip Cookies
Chocolate Chip Cookies (NYT recipe)
Chocolate Chip Shortbread
Fleur de Sel Break-Ups
Flourless Hazelnut Cookies
Lavender Shortbread
Linzer Cookies
Milan Cookies
Graham Crackers
Hazelnut Shortbread with Nibs
Nutella Pinwheel Cookies
Olive and Rosemary Crackers
Olive Oil Crackers
Sugar Cinnamon Palmiers

Tarts, Pies, Galettes, Cobblers and Crumbles

Sweet:

Apple Crisp/Crumble
Apple Galette
Apple Pie Pockets
Chocolate Caramel Tartlets
Chocolate tart -rich and creamy
Creamy Oreo Pie
Fig Tart with Vanilla Scented Frangipane
Nutella Pop Tarts
Simple Apple Pie
Strawberry Pop Tarts
Strawberry Rhubarb Tarts
Strawberry Tartlets

Savory (plus quiches):
Corn and Spinach Quiche
Zucchini and Onion Tart

More sweet stuff!

Baked Vanilla Yoghurt
Banana Manna
Figs Stuffed with Goat Cheese
Chocolate Truffles
Chocolate Mousse
Cinnamon Sugar Churros
Marshmallows
Passionfruit Truffles
Tiramisù

Ice-creams, sorbets and frozen yoghurts

Guava Sorbet(without ice cream maker)
Oreo Cookie Ice-cream
Pink cherry Frozen Yoghurt
Strawberry Frozen Yoghurt (without ice cream maker)
Strawberry Sorbet

Breakfast

Banana Nutella Crepes
Buckwheat Pancakes (Blinis)
Asparagus, Mint and Mushroom Frittata
Chocolate Chip Banana Pancake
Mulberry Yoghurt
Strawberry Butter and Biscuits
Waffles with Mango and Honey

Breads

Cinnamon Sugar Churros
Cinnamon Sugar Pretzels
Cinnamon Sugar Pull Apart Bread
Chocolate Cinnamon Babka
Danish Braids
Fluffiest Cinnamon Sugar Rolls
Garlicky Herb Twists
Grape and Rosemary Focaccia
Lavash
Pesto Bread Rolls
Potato Dill Bread
Rosemary and Garlic Oil Focaccia
Sticky Cinnamon Buns
Tomato and Rosemary Focaccia

Mains

Chicken in Black Bean Sauce with Fried Rice
Double corn and mint risotto
Grilled Chicken and Vegetable Pasta
Lime and Mint Kebabs
Hazelnut Crusted Lamb Chops
Parmesan Risotto with Pine Nuts and Vegetables
Roast Chicken with Balsamic Vegetables
Sage Garlic Butter Gnocchi
Six Cheese Mac and Cheese
Stuffed Eggplants
Three Cheese Risotto
Three Pepper Spaghetti Carbonara
Za’atar and Feta Pizza
Zucchini and Goat’s Cheese Pizza


Sides

Caramelised Corn with Fresh Mint
Cream Cheese Stuffed Peppers
Crispy roasted potatoes with garlic, lemon and sage
Fried Bombay Duck

Garlicky Baked Fries (wedges, actually!)
Garlicky Herb Twists
Herb Butter Mushrooms with Smoked Mozzarella
Herby Purple Potatoes
Hasselback Potatoes
Marinated Eggplant with Garlic and Herbs
Mushroom and Rosemary Farro with Toasted Walnuts
Mushrooms with Bacon and Sage
Parmesan Roasted Broccoli
Roasted Butternut Squash with Parmesan and Pine Nuts
Sundried tomato Bruschetta
Zucchini Bruschetta

Nibbles

Apple Chips
Candied Ginger
Candied Orange Peel
Cinnamon Sugar Popcorn
Ginger and Honey Roasted Almonds
Oven-dried tomatoes
Parmesan and Thyme Roasted Almonds
Roasted Chestnuts
Spice Infused Grapes
Thyme Toasted Pecans

Drinks

Ginger Ale
Lemongrass Cooler
Mango Lassi
Rhubarb Ginger Fizz
Rhubarb and Lemongrass Cooler
Strawberry and Watermelon Slushie
Strawberry Lassi

Indian

Sindhi Curry and Aaloo Tuk

Sauces, jams, dips, condiments and pickles

Sweet

Applesauce
Cinnamon Butter
Dulce de Leche
Peach and Cherry Jam Infused With Vanilla Bean
Strawberry and Apple Jam
Strawberry Butter
Strawberry coulis

Savory

Fig, Walnut and Honey Cheese Spread
Hummus
Garlicky Hummus
Marinated Sweet Peppers
Pickled Jalapeños
Pesto Sauce
Raw Mango Relish
Roasted Garlic and Onion Jam
Spicy Mango Chutney
Tomato Basil Sauce

How-to

Candied Ginger
Dulce de Leche
Flavoured Salts
Garlic Infused Olive Oil
Grow Lemongrass
Hazelnut Extract
Handmade pasta
Homemade MascarponeOven-dried tomatoes
Paneer/Indian Cottage Cheese
Pesto: No bitterness!
Strawberry Butter
Vanilla Bean Sugar
Vanilla Extract and Vanilla Sugar

Ingredient info

Fresh Hazelnuts
Garlic
Kokum
Lemongrass
Vanilla Beans
Za’atar

Book Reviews

The Flavour Thesaurus
The Sharper Your Knife The Less You Cry

Travel

America:
New York City

England:
Borough Market
Lake District

France:
9 Fun Things I Did in Paris
Paris (Orangefoodie!)

Italy:
Italy
Pretty Windows
Provolone Valpadana

Spain:
Beautiful Barcelona
La Boqueria Market
Locals at La Boqueria

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