From the category archives:

special ingredients

Fresh Hazelnuts

October 18, 2011

Fresh Hazelnuts

Can you imagine my delight when I found these at the supermarket? Much sweeter than the ones we’re used to, and so much fun to crack open and eat straight out of the shell. These can be roasted to bring out their nutty flavor, too. A while ago, I found newly harvested hazelnuts with their papery skins on at a fresh produce shop while walking around Paris looking for a tabac to buy a SIM card. This is what they looked like.

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Roasted Chestnuts

I think we need to sit down and have a chat. Over some roasted chestnuts. Because that’s what I’m obsessed with these days.

Before one of you jumps up and asks me, “Oh! where do you get these in Bombay?” you’ll figure where soon enough. There have been a lot of things that have happened in the past few months – something that I’ve been quietly planning and was too shy to share until it actually happened. Honestly, I still can’t believe that it’s happening.

***
Earlier this year, I decided to apply for scholarships to fulfil my long standing dream of studying at Le Cordon Bleu. I looked up the scholarship options,  spent a few days to write the essays, filled out the applications and submitted them. And then I waited. Waited with much anticipation. The day the result for the Culinary Trust Scholarship was to be announced, I barely slept. I kept waking up to frantically refresh my inbox for emails from the Trust. Nothing. The next afternoon, I was too distracted to get any work done. Not wanting to wait any longer for an official verdict, I emailed my interviewer. In a few (excruciating) hours she replied. Her email read, “You DID receive the scholarship to Le Cordon Bleu London!!!!!” I shrieked and stood up on my chair, startling my mom who was busy with her Sudoku. I ran to the next room and broke the news to my dad. I felt a surge of energy, a feeling of contentment and gratitude. I won.

***

Remember orangefoodie? The guy who I’d refer to occasionally in my posts; the guy who wrote that post on Paris?

Umm…I just married that guy.

We wed in July after knowing each other for 7 years. We used to attend the same undergrad school and even worked at the same company until I decided I’d much rather bake. When he decided to move to France, there was hardly a chance that we’d live apart. We had to go together. We had to get married. And now that he’s no secret anymore, his name is Arjun. And I’m pretty crazy about him.

***

While we were on our honeymoon in Malaysia, I received a BBM from my friend Maha from Pakistan where she told me she won the James Beard scholarship to study at the French Culinary Institute in NYC. She asked me if I had heard from the trust. I hadn’t. Now, Maha and I’ve been friends for over a year. She had won the James Beard Foundation scholarship to study at Le Cordon Bleu London in 2009. Maha was more than helpful with my own application. She ended her first email with “If you need any help, I’m here.” Nobody says that in a first email. I felt taken care of. I had the best advisor I could have asked for. Thanks, Maha. (Readers from Pakistan: She makes cake, so you’re going to love her too. More on Fatso’s Catering.)

Anyway, I got back to Bombay wondering why I hadn’t won. I was disappointed, but with the chaos of packing, moving cities, and starting a new life in Paris, I didn’t mull over it too much. That night before we left for Paris, on my mom’s birthday, I received a one line email from The James Beard Scholarship that read, “Letters regarding application status were recently released.  Please see attached.” Why bother opening a rejection letter, I thought. I reluctantly downloaded the attachment and spotted the words “I am pleased to announce…” Umm, what? I began reading it again. I had won the scholarship to study Cuisine at Le Cordon Bleu Paris. Pinch me.

***

So, here I am sitting on my desk in France, with a view of lush chestnut trees from my window. I still can’t believe I won both the scholarships I applied for. I keep going back to the Culinary Trust website to see my name up there. I still can’t believe I’m married and living in the city I’ve always wanted to. I’ve been here for a month now – setting up our first home together, arranging my kitchen shelves, cooking more Indian food than I’ve ever cooked (the craving!) and shopping at G. Detou so I can start baking. The light in our house is absolutely fantastic for food photography, plus the slanted rays means I have more flexibility in terms of time of day to shoot. My uncle gifted me a professional KitchenAid stand mixer for the wedding and I need to go and pick that up from London later this month, along with a bagful of my cookbooks he brought back with him after the wedding. It’s all coming together now.

***

I thought I’d address this since I’ve been receiving a load of email enquiries for baking classes that range from the cute “I’d love to come to your class with my niece” to the demanding, “Where are you?? Need new baking lessons.”  I may not reply to all the mails I get for classes, but I tuck them safely into a folder meant just for these, for the time that I’m back in Bombay and ready to conduct classes. You will be the first to know.

***

So back to the roasted chestnuts. My adorable Korean neighbour and biggest Aamir Khan fan, Sky and I go chestnut picking downstairs with large plastic bags in hand. We make sure we wear sports shoes so we don’t get pricked by the horrible spiky, cactus-like shell and then come back upstairs to roast them in the oven and eat them while they’re still warm, and almost too warm to peel.

Beware though, a few days ago we thought we hit the jackpot when we discovered a tree that bore even larger chestnuts. We stuffed them in our bags, prepped them and roasted them, but when it was time to eat them, they were spat right out. These big chestnuts were awfully bitter. A little reading proved that they were in fact Horse chestnuts. They’re meant for animals and are slightly toxic for humans. Yikes. Into the trash can they went.

After picking and roasting chestnuts over the weeks, I figured out a few things about them:

* A long incision needs to made on the chestnut. Either across the centre of it, or a cross on the top. This serves two purposes. Firstly, it will let the steam escape, so peeling the roasted chestnuts is a cinch. If you don’t, you won’t manage to get a whole piece of chestnut – I ended up rabbit-teething (using the maxillary central incisors to scoop out the chestnut fresh from the shell). Also, scoring the shell of the chestnut will prevent chestnut bombs going off in your oven (steam can’t escape, the pressure builds up, you get the point), or worse, on your couch when you’ve pulled them out before letting them cool. True story.

* When you’re picking (or buying) chestnuts, choose the ones with nice, shiny shells.

* If a chestnut has a black spot when peeled, discard it. It’s spoilt, or it’s likely that you’ll find a baked creepy-crawly in it (eww).

* It’s a good idea to let the chestnuts sit for a few days before you roast them. The starch will convert to sugar and you’ll have sweeter chestnuts.

* The toughest part really is making incisions with a knife. The smooth chestnut is bound to slip that leads to a cut. My friend tells me that they have a special tool in Korea just for this (these guys have a tool for everything!)

For Bombay folks, you can enjoy the taste of chestnuts in a jar of Bonne Maman Marron confiture. It’s terrific.

Roasted Chestnuts

Ingredient:
1 kg chestnuts (or as many can fill on your baking tray in a single layer)

Method:
Heat the oven to 180C.
Using a small, sharp knife, make incisions in the shell of the chestnut.
Place them on a baking tray and bake for 15-20 minutes, until you see the shell opening up and curling slightly.
Turn off the oven, and let it continue to sit inside (Just for safety, in case some incisions weren’t big enough.)
Transfer to a large bowl. Peel and eat up while it’s still warm.

Once I manage to save some without eating them all, I’ll try and cook something up with them. Do point me to your favourite chestnut recipes.

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Vanilla Bean 101

August 17, 2009

When I was in college, I remember an economics class where one of the basic financial instruments was called a vanilla bond. Having never seen a vanilla bean before, the only thing associated it to the basic ice cream flavour and didn’t pay much heed. Years later when I had my brush with the real stuff, I took offense to the term. How can anyone use vanilla in the context of being something so commonplace? It is anything but plain and boring! I’m convinced that there has been a mistake somewhere along the line and the misrepresentation stuck. Vanilla adds flavour. Vanilla enhances flavour. There is nothing apart from good vanilla that can make a baker happy. And it’s no surprise that vanilla takes the number one spot on my list.

Vanilla is expensive and that’s why you should careful about what you buy. Good vanilla bean is moist, bendy and typically over 6 inches in length. A colleague of mine at work, Dhruv, shared these tips on how to buy vanilla:

  • The bean should be aromatic and feel dense when held.
  • Wrap the bean tightly around your forefinger. If the bean remains intact, you’re good. If the bean crumbles, you know that the bean is a little old and not at the peak of its flavour.
  • After you’ve unwrapped the vanilla bean from your finger, and you see an oily residue, it goes to show that the beans are concentrated with oils and are full of flavour; a good sign.
  • When you cut the bean at either of the ends, you should see oil bubbles oozing and not just the vanilla caviar.

As for storage, vanilla beans are best stored in wax paper or plastic wrap and then placed in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. Just make sure not to refrigerate it because it tends to get mouldy.

Vanilla Seeds

I’d heard of double strength and triple strength vanilla, and it sounded like a tempting purchase, but I soon learned that it isn’t really a matter of concern for most of us home bakers. It is just something used by professionals when they’d rather use more concentrated extract in lesser quantity so as to maintain the colour of a pristine white icing that requires vanilla flavourings sans the brownish tinge.

I’m sure you’d be interested in making your own vanilla extract. I made it a while ago, and am going to make a few more bottles of it thanks to Rajika who sent me a bagful of vanilla beans. The extract is especially good with ice creams because it has a vodka base and results in a much softer, delicate texture (since vodka freezing point is way lower at 27°C/16°F).

I have only recently discovered the goodness of steeping vanilla bean with peaches and cherries in hot water to infuse the flavour and letting it stand overnight for a super delicious jam. For this, simply cut the bean on either ends, make an incision through the length tough skin and scrape down to get your dose of pure vanilla goodness.

Once you’ve scraped off the vanilla, you can either stick the remaining bean into a jar of sugar for your very own vanilla sugar or dry it in the oven on a low temperature setting (115°F/45°C), grind it to a powder and use it in sprinkled over French toast or in cakes, ice creams or any place you’d like pronounced vanilla visibility. It would especially be great swapped with cinnamon in this cake , both in the batter as well as the sugar crust.

I came upon something quite unique – vanilla infused olive oil on Vanilla Garlic. Garrett suggests quite a few ways as to how this can be used, but the one I like the most is to use it over grilled fruit. I’m thinking it’d be great to brush peaches with this oil just before placing it on the grill. Unfortunately, I’ve got to wait another year before I get my hands on some peaches. Until then I’m going to occupy myself with other vanilla projects.

Have tips on using vanilla bean? Let’s discuss in the comments section.

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Jamuns/Jambools/Java Plums
Jamuns (aka jambuls, jambun or java plums) are fruits that are exclusive to the subcontinent. And for once, I’m happy to say I’d have these over any of the berries (or rather the lack of them) I’ve been crying over. No, I don’t need raspberries,cranberries and blackberries, I’d much rather have jamuns.

Jamuns are fruits with a blackish-purple skin. They can be white inside with a purple seed or deep purple all together. Come to think of it, they look like large black olives. When they’ve just begun entering the market they’re usually quite tart, but as they mature, they still have the characteristic zing but are much sweeter. They’ve got an astringent after taste that will keep reminding you of the flavour and you will end up eating a lot more of these than you intended!
Jamuns start making their appearance during early April and are found through June on every other busy street with women selling them by the kilo. There are a few jamun trees in my apartment complex as well, but I’d need a huge bamboo stick and a taller person to help me get those down! Each time I see the fruits on the tree I’m reminded of the summers of my childhood. All the girls in the neighbourhood would come out with their bicycles and run amuck though the sunny days. We’d pluck jasmine flowers to make tiny garlands, we’d make tents with bedsheets between two trees, we’d play with the turtles that resided in the fountain (well, here I’d just be watching) and we’d run around with vessels picking up jamuns that some of the older boys would pluck with bamboo sticks. Jamun picking was my favourite part. After collecting as much as I could, I’d run back home to show mum my new found treasure. Mum would then rinse them in running water, drain them and then put them in a saucepan with a little rock salt and shake it up together with the lid on. This way, they become nice and mushy, with the salt beautifully rounding off the tartness. No sooner were they laid out in a plate than I’d be on a marathons of sorts – eating up as much as I could, and in the process not just staining my fingers and tongue a shade of deep purple, but also my clothes (much to my mum’s chagrin).
Jamuns/Jambools/Java Plums
Even today, that is exactly how I enjoy my jamuns – pounded until tender with a pinch of salt. Jamuns are used to make preserves, sauces, tarts and jams as well. I haven’t tried cooking the fruit but I’m curious to know how it would taste. Maybe I will give it a shot sometime. They can also be made into sherbets, sorbets, syrups or pulpy drinks. I recently discovered that the jamun fruits are even fermented into wine in some parts of India!
I’m sure most of you would have never heard of this fruit, but when you’re travelling to the subcontinent during the summer, keep your eyes peeled for these.

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Time for Thyme

November 25, 2008

Besides having a rich history as a mystical and medicinal herb, thyme is also one of the most versatile culinary herbs. They get their characteristic fragrance because of the chemical thymol. It’s easy to confuse Ajwain with thyme, since the chemical is common to both.

Whenever I buy herbs, I get a lot of flak from the folks at home because they know most of it is going to sit in the refrigerator and dry up (though I’m not complaining – I get more concentrated flavours!). So, what does one do when you need just a tiny bunch of it? I put together a list of things that I could do to use up fresh thyme and found that thyme can be your best friend because it’s almost like an all-purpose herb.

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What one can do with fresh thyme:
• Stuff chicken
• Use it in soups and stews
• Baste steak when mixed with olive oil , garlic, salt and pepper
• Use it with rosemary for a more robust and woody flavour
• Also pairs well with pairs particularly well with lemon, garlic and basil
• Sprinkle on pita mixed with sumac, slat and sesame for fresh za’atar
• Flavoured butter! (Oh, how I have a weakness for this).
• Pastas and risottos
• Scalloped potatoes
• Chimichurri. Kelly has a great recipe for a Herby Chimichurri.

Got more ideas for using thyme? Let me know!

Just have a look at the search results for thyme on FoodBlogSearch and you will have so many recipes to choose from.

I made some thyme toasted pecans as soon as I saw them on A Yankee in a Southern Kitchen. I’ve saved my precious pecans for cinnamon rolls, but I just had to make these. They are so darn addictive!

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Thyme Roasted Pecans

4 cups pecan halves
2 tsp sea salt
1 tsp freshly ground pepper
1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• In a bowl, mix all your ingredients except the pecans, set aside.
• Toast the pecans over medium heat until golden brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes.
• Add the pecans to the spice mix and toss gently until they’re coated.
• Let ‘em cool a bit before serving.
Like always, if you’ve got only dried thyme, use half the amount of the dried herb.

This post is off to Ruth’s Bookmarked Recipes, a food event where you can blog about a recipe that’s been bookmarked from a cook book, food magazine, food blog, food website, from TV etc. Remember to catch the round up next Monday!

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