From the category archives:

how-to

Apple Tart
I think an apple pie is one of the first things I baked when I got an oven. I used a pie dough recipe from a nondescript local book and didn’t pay much attention to baking blind (we will get to this shortly). Back then, this was an unnecessary step that the naïve me thought I could do without. I didn’t know the technique behind it, nor the importance as I had only begun exploring the hows and whys of baking.
Apple Tart with Mascarpone Cheese
After poring over my favourite books and reading up quite a bit on the subject of pie dough over the years, I have come to understand them a little better. I love how Alice Water has been so descriptive through every step – you should probably buy The Art of Simple Food just for this chapter, if nothing else.
I don’t believe that there is THE pie crust recipe and that just that one recipe is absolutely foolproof, because with pie, it’s more about the technique and timing – at the end of it, it’s flour, butter and liquid put together.

Butter, Apples and a Tart ready for the oven

Making a pie crust isn’t such a nightmare for me as prepping seafood but here are some pointers I have grown to live by:
  • The refrigerator is your best friend. Start with chilled or frozen butter and keep putting the dough into the fridge in between steps. In fact, refrigerate everything – the ingredients and the pie dish. Especially when you’re living in a warm place.
  • Work with the ingredients quickly. They must, must, must remain cold at all times. A pastry cutter works beautifully, but a food processor or a KitchenAid will do things much faster. Or at least I’d like to think so because I just love my KitchenAid.
  • Use ice water. Not water with ice in it, but ice with water. I fill the measuring cup with ice cubes and then add water until it reaches the rim of the cup.
  • Don’t add in all the liquid at one time. The amount you need will vary depending on the humidity. It will also be a lot lesser if you’re adding an egg yolk to the pie crust.
  • A wet dough it better than a dry one that will crack while baking – add water a tablespoon at a time. If it falls apart like sand, it is too dry. Remember, it will get drier in the oven.
  • I like to add an egg yolk for its golden hue; it also prevents gluten development resulting in a tender crust.
  • I’ve read good things about vinegar additions in the pie dough. I have yet to try it from the recipe in Molly’s book – A Homemade Life, but vinegar is supposed to prevent gluten development (awesome for bread, but not for the said pie we are about to bake) and help achieve the much coveted texture.If you have, let me know!
  • Butter or shortening? They say using shortening yields a more flaky crust. I use all butter because I’m just biased. I’d like to try lard to, but I don’t have access to any.
  • Can you see the butter in the dough? That’s your answer to a flaky crust. It’s as simple as that. When you see the butter, you are assured of flakiness. Why? Because the dough will envelope the butter and form tiny pockets, and with heat, the butter in these pockets will melt and pie crust will puff up with the steam (same principles as puff pastry). Flaky crust!
  • I prefer using metal pans as opposed to ceramic ones to achieve a crispier crust and for an even crispier base, place the pie pan on a pizza stone or a thick baking sheet.
  • If I want a crumbly crust, I simply press the dough into the pie dish. And for a flaky one, I roll out the dough.
  • After watching how easy is to roll out the dough (thank you Rachel Allen), sandwiched in a clingfilm, I’m a fan of the method. You won’t even need flour for dusting. Also, when you’re rolling out the dough, it should feel a little tough to roll out. This way you know that the butter is absolutely cold. 
  • Once rolled out, peel off the upper sheet of cling film and gently invert the rolled dough into the pie dish. Again, be gentle.
  • After transferring the dough into the pie dish, first press the dough into the dish and then trim off the edges. Otherwise you will end up with shorter edge. Yes, I’m talking from experience. Also, correctly fitted dough stays put when it is baked and doesn’t shrink. Crimp the edges if you want it to look a little fancy.
  • Baking blind is important. It will dry the surface of the crust and help maintain the texture when baked again with the filling. Another nifty trick I picked up when watching Rachel Allen Bake was that she’d brush the inside of the pie after its partially baked with a beaten egg and pop it into an oven for another few minutes. This seals the pie and gets you another step closer to a non-soggy base.
  • To blind-bake, after fitting the rolled out dough into the pie, place a piece of parchment in it and fill it with beans or pie weights. More than that I love this tip from Dorie Greenspan – you should butter the inside of the pie crust, before placing a piece of foil and beans for blind baking. Yay for extra butter!
  • While baking blind, if you think the edges are browning quicker than you think, wrap some aluminium foil around it.
  • When to bake blind? Rule of thumb: for fruit and liquidy fillings bake blind.
  • Add your own tips in the comments and share what you think is absolutely necessary to achieve that perfect crust!

Now go on and bake your favourite pie!

Apple Tart
Pie Dough
Minimally adapted from: Dorie Greenspan
Yield: 9 inch single crust
1 ½ cups all purpose flour
2 tbsp caster sugar
1 ½ stick butter
1/4th cup ice water
1 egg, beaten
  1. In a bowl, stir the dry ingredients together.
  2. Add the pieces of cut butter into this and either cut with a pastry cutter or food processor until the mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs with a lot of larger pea sized chunks of butter as well.
  3. Add the water a spoonful at a time until the dough holds itself together without being too dry.
  4. Transfer this to a Ziploc bag and put it into the refrigerator for an hour or the freezer for a little lesser time.
  5. Butter a 9 inch pie dish and pop it into the freezer as well.
  6. Now roll out the dough between two sheets of cling film. Transfer to the pie dish, press into the dish and refrigerate it for another 30 minutes or until it has firmed up. Poke some holes into the crust with a fork.
  7. While the pie crust is chilling in the freezer, preheat the oven to 400F/200C.
  8. Butter the shiny side of the foil and stick it tightly to the crust. Fill with dried beans and bake for 25 minutes.
  9. If the crust has puffed up then push it back down with the back of the spoon. Now brush this with some beaten egg and pop it back into the oven for another 5-7 minute minutes.
  10. Let this cool before filling it in with anything. Remember, this is partially bakes. for a fully baked pie crust, pop it back into the oven for another 10 minutes or until golden in colour.
Cinnamon Apple Filling:
4 granny smith apples – peeled, cored and sliced
4-5 tbsp sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
2 tbsp butter
  1. Sprinkle 2 tbsp sugar and ½ tsp cinnamon on the base of the pre-baked pie crust.
  2. Arrange the apples in a concentric fashion starting out on the edge and moving inwards.
  3. Sprinkle the top with the remaining cinnamon and sugar. Dot with a little butter.
  4. Bake the pie for 15-20 minutes until the apples look like they’re done.
  5. Glaze with some jelly + water mixture for a shiny look.
  6. Serve with whipped cream or mascarpone cheese. YUM!

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Candied Ginger + Ginger Ale

September 15, 2009

Candied Ginger
Have you ever candied something? Maybe some orange or lime zests? If you haven’t, I urge you to give it a go. I only realise now what I had been missing out on all this while once I candied some ginger this morning. What’s more, it put my skepticism about candying at rest – waaay easier than I ever thought. Also, something I didn’t expect – these babies are addictive!

Given I have zero experience with candying this seemed like a good challenge (note to self: macarons will be the next challenge). I also needed an excuse to use the candy thermometer I’d bought but never used, in addition to proving to my mom that I do use the gazillion kitchen tools I keep buying. But more importantly, I wanted to make it because I have been itching to try Molly’s Banana Bread recipe (stay tuned!) in which candied ginger plays a very important part.

Candying ginger is quite straightforward, actually – You have to slice the ginger thinly with a sharp knife or a mandoline, then boil it twice in water, simmering for 10 minutes each time (make sure to reserve the water for an awesome ginger ale concentrate which I will tell you about in just a bit). Next, put the boiled ginger pieces with the sugar, water and a pinch of salt. Let it come to a boil and then let it simmer until it has reached a consistency of thin honey or 225F/106C on a candy thermometer (making sure people who complain about your precious kitchen gadgets are watching). Drain, toss in sugar, and set it on a cooling rack to dry up!

I’m munching on these just as I type – addictive, I tell you. And just as a final stamp of approval, grandma  gives these a two thumbs up because this is excellent after meals as a digestive.

Fresh Ginger + Candied ginger

Candied Ginger
Recipe source: David Lebovitz

1/2 pound / 225g fresh ginger, peeled, sliced thinly
2 cups / 400g sugar, plus additional sugar for coating the ginger slices, if desired
2 cups / 1/2l water
pinch of salt

  1. Put the ginger slices in a non-reactive pot, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let ginger simmer for ten minutes. Drain, and repeat one more time.
  2. Mix the sugar and water in the pot, along with a pinch of salt and the ginger slices, and cook until the temperature reaches 225F/106C.
  3. Drain very well while the ginger is hot, so the syrup will drain away better and sprinkle the drained slices with caster sugar as you toss the ginger in a bowl. Spread the ginger slices on a cooling rack for a few hours or overnight, until they’re somewhat dry.
  4. Alternatively, you could let the ginger sit in the syrup for an hour or overnight and even store the ginger slices in its syrup.
Storage: The ginger, packed in its syrup, can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one year. Tossed in sugar, the pieces can be stored at room temperature for a few months.

Ginger Ale

Ginger Ale
Yield: 6 servings

Leftover ginger water from boiling
Leftover sugar syrup from candying
½ cup water
½ cup sugar
Juice of 3 limes (or half per serving)

  1. Simmer all of the above except the lime for 5-7 minutes until the sugar has dissolved and the syrup is beginning to thicken. Turn off the heat. The syrup will continue to thicken. Once cool, transfer to a jar if you’re not going to be using it all up.
  2. In a glass, add 4-5 tbsp of the concentrate, juice of half a lime and club soda and stir. Drink up!

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Dulce de Leche

Not too many moons ago I tweeted about my curiosity about dulce de leche (
dool-say deh lay-chay) to which people oohed, aahed and gushed about how delicious a treat it is and their favorite way of using it. I wondered how something as simple as condensed milk could be transformed to such a tasty caramel sauce, with just a little heat and a lot of time. I had read about it being super easy to make; simply plonk the can of condensed milk in a vessel of simmering water or microwave it (in a non-metallic bowl, of course) for 10-15 minutes, and there you have it. When I did make it, I was stunned by the results. From being just condensed milk, it had metamorphosed into a thick, creamy and rich dessert in its own right. I remember the first time I had it – I ate it by the spoonful straight from the jar and before I knew it, I was more than halfway through the jar, maybe with a little fed to my clothes. Sure, it can be used in cakes, as a topping for muffins and ice creams, spread over bread and cookies or swirled into brownies but on its own Dulce de Leche is pretty darn addictive.
Dulce de Leche

Dulce de Leche is a rich, milk-based caramel sauce. Now, Dulce de Leche is available packaged in bottles, but nothing compares to the richness and density of homemade Dulce de Leche.
Last night I made Dulce de Leche again, but this time around instead of opening the can up and letting it simmer in a water bath I immersed the entire can in water for 3 hours. I did risk an explosion (caused by the pressure built up in the can) but I found this to be a lot better because this way curiosity couldn’t get the better of me since there was nothing to check! Plus, when the can is completely immersed, you can get rid of the rattling sound the can would make when half immersed in water. Of course, I tired this method just this one time (I promise!). I recommend that you always pierce 2 or 3 holes at the top of the can or keep the can partially open while it simmers in a water bath. If you still want to give the first method a shot then make sure not to open the can immediately, else you just might have some hot Dulce de Leche in your face.
Dulce de Leche

Dulce de Leche

1 can of condensed milk (mine weighed 400g or a little under 1 pound)
Water
  1. Either pierce two holes at the top of the can or with a can opener, open the can half way. No need to pull the lid back.
  2. Place the can in a deep sauce pan and fill the pan with water just until 3/4th of the can is immersed and simmer over low heat, 3-4 hours (I say 3-4 hours because that depends on how thick you want the dulce de leche to be – here I have simmered the can in water for 3 hours, but if you’d like it thicker, by all means continue simmering).
  3. Keep an eye on the the water level, making sure to refill the water and maintain the level. After the 3-4 hours, turn off the heat and let the can cool.
  4. Remove the lid and serve or use as desired.
Variation: Add half a teaspoon of cinnamon, nutmeg or half a vanilla bean to the dulce de leche to heighten the flavour! Oh and even a sprinkle of sea salt.

If you’ve got gallons of milk at hand then you might want to try this method of reducing the milk. And if you’re in a hurry, you can try the microwave method (aka cookingforengineers method!).

Some Recipes that use Dulce De Leche as an ingredient or topping:Dulce De Leche Cake with Vanilla Bean
Cinnamon Sugar Churros
Crispy Apple Crumble
Paratha, Puff Pastry, Palmiers
Chocolate Brownies

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BBQ with a Sigdi

November 3, 2008

All those who know me, know that my kind of fun is different – I’d rather be home on a Friday night and cook something nice for my family than be hopping all over the place. So last Friday, I did something I’d been planning for quite a while – a bbq at home!

For as long as I can remember, I’ve been a huge fan of all things smoked – it’s something about the warm, rustic smell of charcoal and the charred look that makes makes it so desirable. Living in an apartment, the only kind of grilling I was used to was on a grill pan – just the stripes on the meat but not the smoky flavour. Only recently did I discover that my gradmum owned a traditional sigdi! And she was generous enough to part with it.

The sigdi is something that was used when people didn’t cook with gas. This is still the case in villages where coal and wood are a major source of fuel. You can also find them on the city streets where the hawkers grill some sweet corn. But off late it’s usually used by those folks who use it for keeping their goodies warm while the coals burn very slowly. Or in restaurants where they keep stuff warm in the buffet section. When my mom was younger, they used it for cooking almost everything – she said she used to make some very nice rotis on the coals.

The sigdi was quite rusted for it hadn’t been used for a long, long time. I had to get it cleaned and oiled before I could use it and it looked as good as new. Well almost.

So how does the sigdi work? We simply have to lay the coals on the rack and ignite them from below – some coir or newspaper should be enough to get things started. At this point things get quite smoky, so it’s best to keep all the windows open. Next, just wait for the coals to get red hot. Fanning the coals through the tiny door helps. Now you’re ready to lay the skewers on the hot coals.

image_1

So while mum fanned the sigdi and the sis skewered the meats and vegetables I just did the turning bit (I suddenly sound like the super lazy Nigella!). In my defense, I put together some chicken, button mushrooms, bell peppers, onions, tomatoes, baby corn, zucchini and paneer together for a nice family dinner.

For the Chicken and paneer skewers
3 chicken breasts, cubed
2 tsp paprika/red chilli powder
3 tbsp yoghurt
A handful of chopped mint
Salt

Rest of the vegetable: I simply chopped the vegetables and sprinkled a good amount of some lemon pepper salt.

This was so delicious, I didn’t really miss having some sides or salads. All in all, a fun experience.

PS: Sorry about the dull photos. I was just too excited about the bbq to take multiple shots. I promise you, the real thing is a lot better!

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Ever since I learnt how wonderfully fragrant real vanilla is, I’ve wanted to get my hand on the real McCoy. Although vanilla grows in South India, it’s mostly exported, having hardly any value in Indian cuisine. So all this while I used the bottled essence (while this isn’t as bad as it sounds). One fine day when I finally found vanilla beans at a gourmet store I was ecstatic! I started thinking of all the recipes I’ll use them in and how aromatic my desserts will become with the real vanilla bean. :D

To have a predominant flavour of vanilla in almost everything, I made vanilla sugar and vanilla extract.

You can use vanilla sugar in place of granulated sugar. Use it to flavour tea, coffee, cookies, cakes, pies or sprinkle on fruits – whatever you fancy. You can use the homemade vanilla extract in place of the store bought extract and have a more pronounced flavour of the vanilla. My extract is only two days old but it already smells so good!

Vanilla Sugar

  • 1 whole vanilla bean
  • 2 cups granulated sugar
  1. Place the vanilla bean into a airtight glass jar and completely cover it with the sugar.
  2. Shake the container once a day.
  3. The sugar is ready to be used within two weeks.
  4. The vanilla bean can be reused to flavor additional granulated sugar.






Vanilla Extract

  • 180 ml/6 fl oz. vodka
  • 2 vanilla beans (or more)
  1. Split the vanilla beans, then cut into half and drop it into a sterilised bottle with vodka.
  2. Give it a good shake everyday.
  3. The extract will be ready for use in 6-8 weeks. You can let the beans remain in the bottle so it’s only get more flavourful by the day.

For both the extract and the sugar, you could also add used vanilla beans – they still have a tonne of flavour left.

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