From the category archives:

cakes and sweet bakes

Kouign Amann

February 3, 2012

Kouign Amann

Last week, I was at Paris des Chefs – an event that had the best chefs and designers collaborate on creating food together. Watching them at work was awe inspiring. I was particularly influenced by Alain Passard’s approach to food and his irreproachable knife skills. My favourite workshops were, of course, those that required oodles of butter, sugar, flour and eggs. I was especially keen on learning to make Kouign Amann. Why? The Amélie fan that I am (who isn’t?), I wanted to make the same cake that she bakes in the movie.

Kouign Amann is a baked sweet specialty that hails from Brittany. In Brittany, ‘Kouign’ means cake and ‘Amann’ means butter. And mind you, there’s a lot of butter. Lots and lots of it. Probably the most I’ve ever seen going into a cake. The layers of the cake are made with a firm dough that is folded with butter and a good sprinkling of sugar before every fold. On baking, the sugar seeps through the layers and caramelises the outside, while leaving the inside soft and tender. Imagine a caramelised croissant. It’s even better than that.

At the workshop, I took my spot right in front of the chef to make sure I get step-by-step photos for the whole recipe since it can be a little complicated, especially if you’re not familiar with viennoiserie. This recipe, will all its butter and sugar is a recipe worth keeping forever (or in my case, blogging). If you have a cast iron or copper pan, use that. I can only imagine how gorgeously caramelised it will be. Oh, also, topped with apples or plums.

Note: This recipe makes a lot of kouign amann. It’s two of the baking trays that you see pictured below. Because it’s so rich, you won’t need more than 1 per person (I couldn’t eat more than half!). So scaling down the recipe might be a good idea if you’re not feeding a part of 12 people.

Kouign Amann

Koiugn Amann Recipe

For the dough:
800g /1.8lb flour
25g / 5tsp salt
30g / 1oz butter
15g / 0.5oz fresh yeast (or 5g instant yeast)
400ml /13.5 fl oz water

For the layering:
650g / 23 oz / 3 1/4th cup butter
400g / 14 oz/ 2 cups sugar

1. Make a firm dough will all the ingredients, making sure not to place the yeast and salt together. Mix together by hand or by using a stand mixer for about 10-12 minutes.

Kouign Amann

2 Form a ball, place it in a bowl and score the top of the dough with a cross. This increases the surface are for the dough to expand. Cover with a cling film and let the dough rest in a warm place for 30-60 minutes.

Kouign Amann

3 Next, use a slab of butter that’s meant for using to make laminated dough. Of course, neither of us has that, so we’ll cut up sticks of butter to a thickness of about 1 cm and place them next to each other for this.

Kouign Amann

4 Roll out the dough to form a rectangle that’s about 45x25cm in dimension. Place the butter (dimensions 20x25cm) in the centre.

Kouign Amann

5 Fold the dough over the butter from both the sides. With each fold, dust the flour with sugar.

Kouign Amann

6 Rotate the dough by 90º, so that the fold is now perpendicular to you when you roll the dough.

Kouign Amann

7 Roll to three times it’s length. Dust with sugar.

Kouign Amann

8 Fold the dough over the centre, just like it was done in step 5.

Kouign Amann

9 Roll the dough to thrice its length again. Dust with sugar.Kouign Amann

10 Fold it into thirds again.

Kouign Amann

Kouign Amann11 Roll out perpendicular to the fold to thrice its length. Dust with sugar.

Kouign Amann

12 Finally, fold the dough into quarters, as shown in the photograph.

Kouign Amann

13 The kouign amann dough in now ready. Roll it out once more to thickness of slightly under 1 cm.

Kouign Amann

14 When you cut vertically into the dough, you can see distinct layers.

Kouign Amann

15 You can cut a square of 15 cms and then fold in the edges to form a circle, or you can cut vertical stips, roll them up and place in cups to make individual servings.

Kouign Amann

Kouign Amann

16 Let the dough rest for 20-30 minutes before baking in a preheated oven at 170ºC.

Kouign Amann

16 Based on the size of the cake dough, the baking time will vary. Bake until golden brown, and the sugar is caramelised.

Kouign Amann17 Remove from the oven, turn the cake over so that the underside can caramelise just as well.
Kouign Amann18 Kouignn Amann is ready – shimmering with butter.
Kouign Amann

Kouign Amann

19 Eat up. Now.

{ 11 comments }

Caramel Apple Cake Recipe

Whenever I spot an apple recipe in a book, it gets bookmarked. Especially lately. I’ve been consuming apple desserts as if they’re they only kind available: apple tart, apple strudel, green apple sorbet, apple cake, apple bread. Anything at all made with apple is picked up without a second thought.

I’d bookmarked this recipe in Falling Cloudberries (one of my favourite cookbooks!) a while ago and I finally got around to making the cake a few weeks ago for the first time when we had friends over for dinner. I thought it was a bit much for 4 people, but it got over sooner than I imagined. I made it again, because I just had to share the recipe with you.

Caramel Apple Cake Recipe

It’s an incredibly simple recipe: You cut up the apples and lay them in the baking dish, sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar and pour over the cake batter and pop it into the oven. One thing to be sure of it to always cut the apples much larger than you think is necessary. They cook down quite a bit, so it’s important that by the end of baking the apple chunks are substantial (I used small golden apples so I quartered them). As per the book, this isn’t meant to be an upside down cake, but I did just that so that the apples could be doused in caramel sauce. Now, about the sauce: if you’d like the sauce to seep through the cake and flavour it, pour it when the cake is still warm. If you want the caramel sauce only to sit on the apples, then wait for the sauce and cake to cool completely.

Caramel Apple Cake Recipe

Caramel Apple Cake

Yield: 9-10 servings
Adapted from: Falling Cloudberries (USA | UK | India)

Ingredients:
3-4 apples (I used 7 small Golden apples), peeled and cut lenghtwise
1 tsp freshly ground cinnamon
7 tbsp / 100g butter, softened
1 cup / 200g sugar, plus a little more for sprinkling
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 eggs
1 2/3 cup / 200g flour
2 tsp baking powder
1/4 cup / 80ml milk

Topping: Caramel Sauce

Equipment:
A 9 inch square pan or a 10” springform cake pan.

Method:

  1. Preheat the oven to 375ºF/190ºC. Grease and flour the baking pan.
  2. Arrange the apples into the pan so that the sit tightly. Sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar.
  3. In a bowl, using a stand mixer or an electric mixer, beat together the butter, sugar and vanilla, followed by the egg. Mixing them in one at a time, until the mixture is soft and fluffy.
  4. Whisk together the flour and baking powder and fold it into the egg and butter mixture. Finally, stir in the milk until it forms a consistent batter.
  5. Pour the cake batter over the apples and smooth out the surface.
  6. Bake for 35-40 minutes until a skewer inserted comes out clean.
  7. Let the cake cool down for ten minutes. First, run a knife along the edges of the cake and then place a plate on the pan and turn the cake over. Tap it gently, and the cake will fall into the plate.
  8. Now, depending on how you’d like the cake (read above) spoon the caramel sauce over it.

What’s your current favourite apple dessert? Perhaps you have an apple dessert to share with me, one that I absolutely must try?

{ 32 comments }

Homemade Tiramisù

July 12, 2011

tiramisu

This has been the longest I’ve been away from the blog, and I’ve missed hanging around here with you. I am so happy to be back here and talking about my favourite thing in the world: baking. But before I move on to that, I owe you guys an update. Thank you so much for your multitude of e-mails and concern. You guys are wonderful!  This period of silence on the blog was totally unplanned. I’ve very recently had the most phenomenal opportunity to be the food editor for BBC Good Food India come my way.  Food editor! (yep, that was hard to type out without a crazy number of exclamation marks). A slew of good things have timed themselves together, and I’m so very grateful. For the past few weeks, my day starts with an early morning French class, followed by an hour long commute to work, and the rest of the day choc-a-block with meetings, planning, recruiting, creating templates and dummy magazines, sourcing and planning photo shoots. It’s like a crash course in magazine journalism with the launch date looming over our heads. I absolutely positively love it.

Now let’s get back to talking about baking.

All that trouble I went through for the mascarpone cheese was all for a good cause: a Tiramisù from scratch.  The lady finger biscuits too.  Readers and friends who’ve known me for a while did a double take when I told them I was making Tiramisù. “But you don’t like coffee!” they said. That’s true, but then I’m quick to make an exception when I want to replicate, or at least match up to, the Tiramisù that changed my opinion forever.

It took one very persistent friend and just one bite of Tiramisù from a tiny restaurant in Verona to alter my opinion. It was our first evening in Italy and as were flipping through the dessert menu, my friend Kainaz suggested I must try the Tiramisù. “Nah, I’m not sure I want to eat that. I’m not a fan of coffee,” I said. “How can you not eat Tiramisu in Italy?” she scorned. I sheepishly relented. And that was it. One bite, and I knew I wasn’t sharing my glass of Tiramisù with anyone, but “poor Kainaz offered hers and it went around the table”, I noted in my travel journal. Uh oh.

lady finger biscuits

After a while, I felt the need to replicate the Tiramisù back here in Bombay.  Kainaz braved the stormy weather to bring me her special coffee blend and Kahlua. I made several visits to the supermarket to get exactly 6 packets of Parsi dairy cream (that eventually didn’t work) and then fresh cream. I collected recipes and tips from various sources: friends in Italy, readers who swear by their recipe, and others who’d taken up a short course while travelling through Italy. What I noticed across all the recipes that I put together from very reliable sources is that they were almost identical. Another friend, Marco, even sent me 18 step-by-step photos for the recipe. It was all very exciting.

After a week of effort and a few not-so-perfect batches of mascarpone, I finally made my Tiramisù from scratch. It was sublime. Coffee and kahlua soaked sponges; soft and cloud-like creamy mascarpone topped with Valrhona cocoa and chocolate shavings. It was nothing short of heaven in a jar.

It’s a project worth investing your time in. You will be proud of yourself and the Tiramisù thieves will attack your refrigerator.

Tiramisu

Tiramisù Recipe

A. Savoiardi Lady Finger Biscuits
Adapted from: Delicious Days

Ingredients:

3 (large) eggs, divided
90g white sugar, divided
1 tsp vanilla extract
60 g all-purpose flour
~2 tbsp confectioners’ sugar

Method:

  1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (390 °F). Line two baking trays with a silicone baking mat.
  2. Beat the egg yolks with half of the sugar (45 g.) until creamy and pale (about 4 minutes on medium speed with a KitchenAid). Mix in the vanilla extract.
  3. In a separate bowl beat the egg whites until soft peaks form, add the remaining sugar slowly and continue to whisk until the egg whites look glossy and form stiff peaks.
  4. Sieve the flour into the bowl containing the creamy egg yolks and fold it in with a spatula. Then, fold in the whipped egg whites.
  5. Fill the batter into a piping bag and snip off the end to give an approximately 1.5 cm diameter and pipe the batter into ladyfinger shapes, about 10 cm/4 inches long, leaving enough space between them as they expand during baking. Generously dust with confectioners’ sugar, then bake until they just start to reach a slight golden color, 11 to 13 minutes. Remove from oven.
  6. Carefully pull the lady fingers from the silicone mat. They keep in an airtight container (divided by parchment or waxed paper) for a few of days, but are best consumed freshly baked.

B. Light, Creamy Mascarpone

500g mascarpone cheese
4 eggs, separated
90g sugar

  1. Beat 45 sugar with the egg yolks until thick and creamy. Set aside.
  2. Whip the mascarpone cheese. To it, add the beaten egg yolks and mix until fully incorporated.
  3. In another bowl, beat the egg whites. Whip them until soft peaks form. Begin adding the remaining 45g of sugar so slowly until the egg whites are stiff and shiny.
  4. Gently fold the egg whites into the mascarpone and egg mixture. Refrigerate for a while until it’s ready for assembling’

C. Coffee Solution

Mix together 2 cups of strongly brewed coffee and 60ml kahlua to use as the soaking syrup for the sponge fingers.

Interestingly, none of the recipes in my inbox that hailed from Italy had Kahlua added to it. Just strongly brewed coffee.

D. Assembling the Tiramisù

You could either assemble it as one big cake, or for easier serving and prettier looking individual desserts you could assemble it in a glass or canning jars. When you make them in canning jars, they make for lovely gifts, too.

Fill a shallow dish or baking pan with the coffee solution. Dip the lady fingers or Savoiardi biscuits (if you’re using readymade) in it.  Make sure to just barely dip them and then remove from the pan, else they will fall apart. Cover the biscuits with a layer of Tiramisù cream and dust with cocoa powder. My Italian friend suggests dotting the surface with some melted chocolate for some crunch on cooling. Lay down the next layer of soaked savoiardi: put them in the opposite direction, crossing the direction of the previous layer. Cover the  second layer with the cream. Flatten as you go. Continue in the same fashion until you have filled up your glass. Finally, sprinkle the tiramisù with cocoa powder and grated chocolate. Let this set in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Some people even prefer to chill it overnight for the coffee flavour to meld into the mascarpone.

When assembling the Tiramisù, I used a piping bag to layer the creamy mascarpone over the lady fingers for better presentation and more neatness.

Good to know: Tira mi sù is an Italian phrase that means ‘pick me up’.

{ 55 comments }

Cookies and Cream Cheesecake

This cake is probably the epitome of Indian frugal baking – it consumes just 1 precious pack of Philadelphia cheese, and yet makes an eight inch cake. The key: create a thicker cookie crust bottom with Oreos that are now, thankfully, produced locally and abundantly available.

My grandma, an elfin lady with the tiniest appetite, licked her plate clean. She had an entire wedge of the cake – an entire wedge. She never eats an entire wedge! Not being a fan of chocolate laden cakes, this one was right up her alley. She declared this cake as being the “best I’ve made so far.” I even saw my aunt tuck away two slices of the cake for office the next day.

While it’s tempting to spoon into the cake as soon as it comes out of the oven, exhibiting  a little patience is in your own interest. The cake, after cooling and firming in the refrigerator for a little while, is creamy melt-in-the-mouth good with the pieces of Oreo cookies lending some bite. And why not, the recipe is based on my go-to cheesecake recipe.

I’ve used vanilla sugar in the recipe, but if you don’t have that, you can just as well use regular sugar and vanilla extract. As with all cheesecakes, it’s important to bake this in a water bath: place the cake pan in a bigger baking dish or roasting pan and pour hot water until it covers about half an inch of the cake pan. The steam helps keep the heat in the oven gentle, and thus prevents the cheesecake top from cracking.

You can even make individual portions of cheesecake cupcakes using the same recipe, just alter the baking time in the oven to 20-25 minutes and use whole Oreo cookies as crust. Easy.

Cookies and Cream Cheesecake

Cookies and Cream Cheesecake

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 45 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour

Yield: 6-8 servings

Ingredients

  • 28 Oreo cookies, ground to a powder
  • 3 tbsp butter
  • 1 pack / 225g / 8 oz. cream cheese
  • 70g. / 2oz. vanilla sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 70g. / 2oz. cream
  • 6-8 Oreo cookies, chopped up

Cooking Directions

  1. Line an 8 inch pan with parchment paper, both base and the sides.
  2. Mix together the ground oreo cookies and melted butter and press it into the pan. Use the back of a spoon to smoothen it out and press it tightly in.
  3. Whisk together the cream cheese and vanilla sugar in the bowl until smooth. Add the egg, followed by cream until it forms a smooth mixture. Stir in the chopped Oreo cookies and pour it over the crust in the cake pan. Top with a few more Oreo cookies and bake in a preheated oven at 160°C in a water bath for 35-45 minutes. The centre should still be a little jiggly.
  4. Once cooled, refrigerate the cake for at least 3-4 hours before slicing up. The texture and flavour develops even more.

{ 54 comments }

Gianduja Roulade

March 25, 2011

Gianduja Roulade

That’s just fancy talk for rich hazelnut chocolate ganache rolled into a hazelnut sheet cake rich with chocolate and more hazelnuts.

As you’ve probably noticed, there is a lot of chocolate being eaten in the Purple Foodie household. And this time, with a bag of fresh hazelnuts at hand, I had to put together one of the world’s greatest food pairings: chocolate + hazelnut.

I made the hazelnut ganache from scratch – which means I toasted the hazelnuts, ground it to a paste, and then mixed it with dark chocolate and cream. If the cake didn’t bake in 8 minutes, I’m pretty sure I’d have licked the bowl of ganache clean.

If you’re not particularly inclined on making the ganache from scratch, you could make the ganache with Nutella. Will work just as well.

Gianduja Roulade Recipe

Adapted from: Pure Dessert (USA | UK | India)
Equipment: A 12×16 inch or 11×17 inch baking sheets with rimmed edges, or two 9×9 inch baking pans, or jelly roll pans.

Gianduja Ganache

Ingredients

  • 4 oz / 100g hazelnuts, toasted
  • 4 oz / 100g dark chocolate
  • 4 oz / 100g icing sugar
  • 8 oz / 200g light cream (I use 25% fat)

Cooking Directions

  1. Toast the hazelnuts in at 175°C/350°F, until they are fragrant and light brown. Let them cool a little before transferring it to a mixer for grind to a paste starting with half the sugar, and then adding the rest of the sugar until it's a homogenous paste. Transfer this paste to a bowl and then add the chocolate. In a saucepan, bring the cream to a boil and pour it over the chocolate-hazelnut mixture. Stir till all the chocolate has melted and then refrigerate until ready to do.

Hazelnut Cake

Cook Time: 8 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

  • 1.5 oz / 50g hazelnuts, toasted
  • 2 tbsp flour
  • 6 oz/ 180g dark chocolate
  • 4 oz/ 100g butter
  • 4 eggs, seperated
  • 2/3rd cup / 130g caster sugar
  • cocoa powder, for dusting

Cooking Directions

  1. Preheat the oven to 175°C/350°F.
  2. Pulse the nuts with the flour in a food processor until finely ground. Set aside.
  3. In a large bowl, melt the chocolate and butter over a pot of simmering water. Once melted, remove from heat and then stir in the egg yolks and half the sugar (1/3rd cup).
  4. In another bowl whip the egg whites until soft peaks form. Then slowly add the remaining sugar, and beat until stiff peaks form.
  5. Fold in about a 1/4th of the whites into the egg mixture. Then scrape all of the egg mixture into the bowl, sprinkle with the flour and hazelnut mixture and fold it in.
  6. Spread the batter evenly into prepared pans. I preferred making mine into smaller roulades, so I divided the batter into two 9 inch square pans.
  7. Bake for 8-10 minutes, until a skewer comes out clean.Now, finally when the cake has cooled, invert it on a sheet of foil and then spread it with the gianduja paste. Start rolling it with the help of the foil. There will be cracks, but it gets less severe as it thickens to one cake.
  8. Refrigerate for a while before slicing, to have neat slices. Dust with cocoa powder to serve.

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